Wind waves : Their generation and propagation on the ocean surface /
Blair Kinsman.
- New York : Dover, 1984.
- xviii; 676 p. : figuras
Introduction - Hydrodynamics - The linearized problem - Solutions by addition - Waves of finite height - The Sverdrup-Munk theory - The specification of a random sea - The Pierson-Neumann theory - The determination of spectra from wave measurements - Perturbations of irrotational motion - Energy considerations - Wave generation by wind - Nonlinear interaction.
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OLAS TEORIA DE OLAS HIDRODINAMICA TEORIA PIERSON-NEUMANN